I knew nudity’s controversial, but we had to go over this sexist cliché.” “But as soon as it’s a man on show, there’s a real phobia and everyone’s outraged. “I believe we live in a culture that objectifies women, draping them naked over anything it wants to sell,” Ford told Vogue in 2019.
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When Tom Ford took the reins at Gucci in the mid-1990s, he was known for putting the male body in the foreground. These briefs from the Savage X Fenty men's line include transparencies, something until recently almost exclusive to women's lingerie. For the singer’s brand, men who are corpulent, bald or paunchy (or all of the above), pose in gear that once upon a time would have only been seen on a Victoria’s Secret model: red briefs, semi-transparent shirts, satin halters. On TracksĪn open-minded approach that has also reached mass-reach firms such as Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty line which, according to The New York Times, launched its first men’s collection in 2020 and sold out in 12 hours. On Tracks echoes the boldness of other contemporary men’s underwear brands, such as Leak NYC, Menagerié or Wicked Mmm which caters to all genders, their motto being: “Your gender expression is all that matters.” Image from the On Tracks brand campaign, which plays with the homoerotic element in sport. They are “breaking with certain canons” of fashion and appearance and not afraid to be themselves. Men have reached a point where they can express themselves personally through clothing, says Ramos. Fredrik Ljungberg presenting his Calvin Klein campaign at Selfridges in London in 2003. The ads for the brand show men’s bodies intertwined as if wrestling, and muscular men in sports socks and underwear. “Brands today are focused on new patterns, designs and materials,” explains Ramos, who wants instead to create a kind of modern vintage look for On Tracks. Álvaro Ramos is the founder of On Tracks, a brand of underwear and sportswear with an aesthetic that combines homoeroticism and nostalgia: cotton t-shirts and briefs in solid colors, wrestling jumpsuits, ribbed boxer and crop top sets.
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In the three decades that have passed since Simpson penned his article on sporno, what was previously an implicit allusion in sports advertising is today an explicit reference. Sportsmen on this side of the Atlantic are increasingly openly acknowledging and flirting with their gay fans,” wrote Simpson in 2006 in Out magazine, mentioning David Beckham and Freddie Ljungberg: ripped, handsome men on the playing field had become unadulterated objects of lust. Journalist Mark Simpson christened it sporno, a mix between sport and porn.